| Reperforation |
| By
the Expert Committee |
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Reperforation of stamps is an easy way to "improve" a stamp's appearance or to try to change it into something better than it was originally. Every philatelist should have the ability to detect possible reperforated stamps as a part of his personal philatelic repertoire. Expert committees are fine for the expensive stamps, but what does one do when a certificate costs more than the stamp to be examined? There are certain things a collector can do to protect himself and this article will address them. In order to help, though, it is important to point out why stamps are reperforated. By following some simple procedures the reader will learn more about his stamps and protect himself from most reperforations. There are only four reasons for reperforating a stamp. They are:
Importance of Catalog Information The first pages of the Scott Specialized Catalogue of United States Stamps are devoted to basic stamp information. The terminology used in the catalog, stamp production steps, and sheet formats are shown and explained in this section. All of this information is helpful. Two general rules apply here. First, most flat plate printings contain straight edges, and second, most stamps printed on a rotary press do not. There are minor exceptions to both rules, but they can usually be relied upon. Reason for Straight Edges Generally speaking, most early commemorative issues had the straight edge on one side only, while most regular flat plate issues had straight edges on two sides. This translates into 10 of every 100 commemorative stamps and 19 of every 100 general issue stamps with straight edges. One of the latter was straight-edged on two sides. Although straight edges are rarer, collectors prefer their stamps with perforations all around. For this reason, and because of the activities of reperforators since stamps were issued, straight edges are more likely day by day to be referred to in the past tense! There are two ways a collector can determine where the straight edge was on a particular issue. The first goes back to the Scott specialized catalogue. Under the listing for a specific stamp or issue, we can find many hints. "Arrows" were guidelines engraved into the actual printing plate to help the printer align the paper for separating the panes and perforating them. These arrows point towards the straight-edge sides on commemorative issues or to the alignment points for perforation. The Scott catalogue listing of a "margin block of 4, arrow, R or L" indicates that blocks exist that straddle the arrow. This further means that perforations, not a straight edge, went horizontally through the sheet at the arrows. It finally implies that the issue was printed as a plate divided vertically into two separate panes, each having a vertical row of ten stamps without perforations on one side. The statement at the beginning of the listing for the issue may be even more helpful. It may say, for instance, "Plates of 100 (10x10) subjects, divided vertically into 2 panes of 50." An example of this is the "Trans-Mississippi" issue, Scott Nos. 285-293. Where arrow blocks are shown but a side reference is omitted, one can assume that the original sheet format was divided horizontally, resulting in straight edges at top or bottom, such as in the Jamestown Exposition issue of 1907, Scott's Nos. 328-330. This may seem very complex, and there is a simpler way to remember these formats. Every collector has access to auction catalogs. Most of them photograph their better items, and occasionally these include sheets of stamps. Make note where the straight edges occur on the various issues, and keep this information in your personal reference file. If you don't have a file, it's a good idea to make one. It does not change, and is as important as your want list.
The elimination of faults and the centering of stamps are quite dissimilar reasons for a stamp to be reperforated, but are very related. Typical faults are "pulled" or short perforations, stained perforations, tiny margin tears, thinning in the margin or along the perforations, creases, or even the removal of a cancellation that might be only on a stamp in its margin. By the removal of these problems, a stamp without faults results, one that will sell for far more than it would with the faults. Likewise, sound but off-center stamps are sometimes reperforated to position the design equidistant from the perforations on all sides. The 2-cent "Black Jack" of 1863 is a prime candidate for this, since it is almost always found off-center. This common stamp is not rare, but because of its oversized impression, it is seldom found well-centered. It is not unusual for a very fine copy of this stamp to sell for many multiples of its catalog value. For a "Black Jack," a well-centered copy is rare. As pointed out in the beginning, the removal of straight edges, elimination of faults, or the centering of a stamp are three different activities that can be grouped together as common reasons for reperforating, since their end product is the same. They all result in a reperforated but "improved" example of the same stamp. Luckily for the collector, though, it is extremely difficult for the reperforator to match genuine perforations exactly. There are several reasons for this, and we will examine each. To simplify matters, we need another "tool" for our use. In this case a cheap used or damaged copy of a stamp from the same issue will do nicely, or perhaps even several. The collector of U.S. stamps should have such a copy for every issue that he collects, and each copy should have a natural straight edge. Why? As it is a used stamp of little value, it can be safely assumed that the perforations on the other sides are original and not enhanced. Any value of an issue will do since they were all perforated in a common manner. A 1-cent Columbian's perforations are the same as those on the $5 value. A good perforation gauge such as the United States Specialist Gauge also helps. Before beginning, we should make a quick study of how stamps are perforated. All perforated stamps of the United States more than a few years old were perforated by line perforators, as distinct from comb perforators. Line and Comb Perforation Comb perforation heads are so named since a single strike of the comb head in a piece of paper looks like a pocket comb. It can be applied either horizontally or vertically. The top of the com b makes the top row (or one full side when applied vertically) of perforations on the stamps. The "teeth" of the comb appear widely spaced and perforate the sides (or the top and bottom when applied vertically) of the stamps. With comb perforations, all perforation holes are uniformly spaced around three sides of a stamp and every stamp in a sheet will have the perforation holes in almost the same location on all sides, and exactly so for those in the direction of subsequent strikes of the comb head. One usual characteristic that identifies almost all comb heads is that all corner perforations will usually meet in a single hole. Comb perforations are found on a great number of foreign issues. Size of Perforation Hole Second, the opposite side perforations should have the same sharpness or roughness since they were created at the same speed. Fast punched perforations tend to be sharper and cleaner, while those applied at a slower speed tend to have a rougher appearance, with paper fibers extending into the holes and beyond the perforation teeth. And third, the rows of perforations on opposite sides should be parallel to one another. This makes sense since the perforating wheels are mounted side by side on a straight rod or axle and are applied in the same motion. This does not mean to imply that the perforations must be exactly square to the stamp design. Perforations can and often are applied at a slight angle to the actual design. But one thing is sure: If the perfs at the top of a stamp slope slightly downward from left to right, the bottom should do the same and at the same angle. The same rules apply to the side perforations. They can slant, but they had better do the same and to the same degree on both sides.
The block pictured in Figure 9 is shown to illustrate another method to determine reperforation. Since this method can be the trickiest and does not work all the time, it is being addressed last. It involves perforations that fall between stamps in pairs, strips, blocks or even larger multiples. When a sheet is perforated by a line perforator, two applications are needed. The perforating devices are passed across the sheet between the stamp designs on it. The sheet is then turned 90 degrees and perforated a second time. The resulting rows of perforations are parallel to one another and usually fall about the same distance away from each stamp design in the same row. So if a vertical row of perforations is located close to the left side of a stamp, it will be farther away from the right side of the same stamp, and the other stamps adjoining this stamp will have more or less the same centering across the horizontal row. This centering usually does not vary much across a sheet, especially within blocks or other small multiples. These observations apply to the issues after 1894 more than to those before.
It may be noticed that much of this discussion is written without referring to or using a perforation gauge. This does not imply that perforation gauges are useless, but rather shows other ways to detect reperforating. Now let us address perforation gauges. They consist of either rows of spaced perforation holes or vertical lines that gradually diverge up the gauge. For U.S. stamps, the best available gauge is the United States Specialist Gauge. This gauge is good because it displays the actual configuration of perforation holes created by the government printers. The dots showing the perf holes are the exact diameters of the genuine perforation holes found on the issues. Of course, actual perforations might vary depending on the speed at which they were punched, but they are generally very close in size to the dots on the specialist gauge. That is the good news. The bad news is that some very sophisticated reperforating equipment is also based on this gauge. In spite of this, it can be used quite effectively with a little common sense. For instance, if the side of a stamp being gauged has holes slightly wider spaced than those pictured on the gauge, the other side should be spaced the same. If the perforations are slightly closer spaced than the gauge, again, the opposite side should be the same. Why is the gauge not the absolute authority and why accept slight uniform differences, side to side or top to bottom? Differences may be due to paper shrinkage. Paper, by its very nature, is not a uniform substance. It is made of a watery mixture of vegetable fibers of some sort to which is added cementing and sizing agents. The whole substance is subjected to pressure and evaporation in the process of drying. Once it has been made, paper can expand or contract by a very small amount depending on the climatic conditions to which it is later subjected. All paper has a characteristic called "weave" or mesh, which is caused by the elongated shape of the fibers, which line up parallel to one another in the paper-making process. Depending on the moisture available, these fibers tend to swell or contract across their short axis. If very humid, the paper tends to expand in the direction across the mesh, while in dry conditions it will contract. This is an over-simplification of a complex subject but sufficient for our purposes. Simply put, the original perforations were created under constant conditions, and though the paper may have changed size due to a change in humidity, the gauge of the original perforations will have changed equally on both sides. If the spacing on one side varies much from the other, you have a right to be suspicious. The last type of perforations we will discuss may or may not be considered reperforation. Since the basic stamp's identity is changed, it is the most fraudulent and therefore the most dangerous type of counterfeit perforations a collector can expect to confront. The intended result is a more valuable stamp, in terms of both the catalog and the market value. Up to now we have concentrated on reperforation or the adding of new perforations on one or more sides. The basic stamp's identity remained the same, and only the market value was affected. A fully perforated or well-centered fault-free specimen will be worth more than its straight-edged, off-center or slightly defective counterpart. But now we face a whole new situation! What can reperforators do?
Also in Figure 11 is a defective but genuine pair of Scott No. 519 from the PF's John N. Luff Reference Collection. On the surface, there is little to distinguish between the block and pair. However, the photo points up some slight differences between the perforations. The perforation holes on the block are a trifle larger, are rougher, vary slightly in alignment, and gauge differently, although ever so slightly, from the genuine Scott 519 pair. The block is not genuine. A few other quick pointers on this tricky stamp should be mentioned. Because the sheets sat around for a few years before being returned and perforated, they tend to be a little toned, especially on the gum. This toning can vary, though, depending on where in the stack of sheets a stamp may have been located. In any case, the gum is usually more yellowish than normal for stamps of the period. Second, it would appear that all sheets used to create Scott No. 519 were lower left panes of 100, having straight edges at top and right. The PF's Expert Committee has examined, and found to be fraudulent, some excellent top and right side plate number blocks. This leads to the final point. All Scott No. 519s should have a certificate from a recognized authority. Like Scott No. 519, the 2-cent single-line watermarked issue of 1915, perforated 11, was issued with little fanfare. Listed by Scott as No. 461, it has always been far scarcer than its modest catalog value would suggest. Because of the relative ease with which counterfeits can be made, the hobby abounds with them. The single copy shown in Figure 12 is part of the PF's reference collection. It was donated to get it off the market, as it is not genuine. The plate number block, however, is a genuine example of this scarce issue.
Figure 12 shows the difference between the perforations on the single and block of Scott No. 461. On the bad single stamp, the perforation holes are slightly larger and the gauge differs from the genuine block. The poorly centered block shows typical examples of Scott No. 461, while the single is well-centered and has large margins. Copies do not come this way, and when they do, one has to be doubly careful to avoid something made for the individual who demands a condition that does not exist.
Every type of perforation problem examined here comes from actual cases presented to the PF's Expert Committee for an opinion. This short survey is not intended to make a perforation expert out of the reader. It is intended to help warn the novice of possible problems he might encounter and suggest aids in both identifying and solving them. Try to remember sheet formats, use comparison copies and a good perforation gauge, and know when to ask for help. Most dealers and auction houses are honest. Mistakes they make are usually not intentional. Reperforation is not as hard to detect as some might think. This discussion should give those who use the techniques mentioned a much better understanding of how to look at stamps for possible problems of reperforation. If any doubts remain after one uses these techniques, an expertizing service will usually be able to resolve them.
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2001 by The Philatelic Foundation; all rights reserved. |
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